HARDINGE CATALOG. This is the only complete Hardinge catalog I have ever had my hands on. The only other Hardinge catalog I have ever had my hands on was dogeared, soiled, torn, with missing pages, etc. The owner of that one allowed me to look at it, but he would not let it out of his house for photocopying. I will not be photocopying this one either because it would be necessary to flatten the pages to do that and that would add significant wear to the catalog. What I am offering is a complete, original catalog in great condition. Someone wrote on the front cover, "Samual Paulson, 29." 116 pages. No copyright date. Catalog is about 100 years old. $300.
THE ELGIN TOOL WORKS STORY: I am frequently asked about the history of the Elgin Tool Works and their relationship with Hardinge. Elgin Tool Works was initially an independent manufacturer in Elgin, IL. Early Elgin lathes used a split bed with the same specifications as the split bed that Hardinge used, and many other parts were similar, but there were significant differences. Most notably, the collets used were different. About the time that Hardinge decided to move operations to Elmira, NY, a group of disgruntled Hardinge employees who did not want to relocate their families bought out the right to use the name Elgin Tool Works and began to manufacture Elgin lathes that were virtual copies of Hardinge lathes with operations moved not just to Chicago, but in the same neighborhood as the Hardinge factory. By this time most Hardinge patents had expired. In most any corporation you will have disgruntled employees; this is par for the course. This renegade group of former Hardinge employees made machinery that was every bit as good as Hardinge; in many cases Elgin machinery is beefier than Hardinge just because, I am guessing, they wanted to save design time rather than steel and weight. The nameplate on the lathe below reads, "Elgin Tool Works, 1770 Berteau Ave. at Ravenswood Ave., Chicago, IL." That was done to show that the Elgin Tool Works was just across the street from the Hardinge Manufacturing Company at the intersection of Ravenswood and Berteau Avenues. Elgin Tool Works was capitalizing on the success of the Hardinge Manufacturing Company. The Hardinge Brothers were not stupid; it wasn't long before Hardinge bought out Elgin Tool Works. For awhile some lathes were made and labeled as was one of the below listed lathes, "Hardinge, Elgin, manufactured by Hardinge Manufacturing Company, Elgin Tool Works Division, Ravenswood, Chicago, USA." Ravenswood and Berteau Avenues are in my neighborhood. One of these days I will take some pictures of the factory buildings as they are today.
Hardinge Elgin 5c lathe. If you have ever wondered exactly what the relationship between Hardinge and Elgin was, look at the nameplate that was on this lathe. I removed the nameplate and the forward/reverse and low/high plates from this lathe in order to do a proper job of painting it. The old paint on the lathe was removed, bad defects in the castings were filled, Sherwin Williams primer and industrial enamel were applied--but not everywhere--no paint was put where paint does not belong. I won't put the nameplates back on perhaps until I sell it. I do use the lathe. It would be difficult to keep the nameplates in the condition they are in on the lathe. The lathe is on an original bench of the best design that I have seen. The bench end legs are one piece cast steel tied together with a couple of steel T-bars in the rear and with the 2.125" thick maple butcher block top and lower shelf. The butcher block top is held together with through bolts across the width and glued. There is a steel drawer and a wood shelf to hold 56 collets. This lathe has been sold. I leave it up for your information.
ALL ORIGINAL VINTAGE ELGIN LATHE. This vintage Elgin literature illustrates an Elgin 5c lathe. Also find photo of one of the lathes that I use. You will see little difference. My lathe is as close to what Elgin offered new 60 years ago as you are likely to find. Note the 60 position dividing head, the 4 lock stop positions, the dual T-slot compound, the #2 Morse taper tailstock. It is in extremely clean condition with very little wear for a 60 year old lathe. I have owned it for 20+ of its 60 years. I bought it from the owner of a technical training school. It was his personal lathe. It was the only lathe left in the cavernous building that housed the technical training school. He had bought it new and was selling it because he was quite old and was retiring and giving up the building--having already given up the technical training school long before. Having just sold my more modern Hardinge lathe illustrated above, which had a better drive system, I have gone back to using this lathe. I will leave the photos up because my web pages are as much about providing information for you as about selling equipment. Just below find my solutions to improving the drive systems of these older flat leather belt driven lathes.
HARDINGE LATHE BED. I bought this because it was so very clean. Because I picked it up in person, I was able to evaluate the condition. I put a straight edge on it and found it to be flat. I measured the thickness of the ways. They are a full 5/16" thick, which means that the ways are in original condidion. That is the original frosting, or scraping, on the ways. The ways have not been, nor do they need to be reground and rescraped. This bed is beefier than your usual cataract lathe bed, therefore more stable. You may use your Cataract head stock or a more modern through the base V-belt driven headstock on this lathe bed. All accessories you need to complete the lathe are readily available on the used market. Let this be your great condition foundation. The fast/slow and forward/stop/reverse levers that are missing from this lathe are, in fact, seldom used unless you have a lathe on the original base cabinet and all the mechanical linkages and electrical controls are functioning. The needle bearings for those levers are in good shape and are still in the holes. I packed the bearings with grease and machined Nylon plugs to fill those holes. All the paint is stripped off; the bed is ready for repainting. Overall length of base is 38". The inverted V-bed is the standard Cataract shape--tapering from 2 9/16" to 3" at the base of the ways. I bought this for my own use, and will put it into use one day, unless you buy it from me before I get around to the work. You could not have your lathe bed reground and rescraped for less, and it would not be as well done as this factory original piece. It is also a lot of work to strip the paint off of a lathe. I now have a headstock, a tailstock and a compound for it. It will eventually be listed as a complete lathe. $450.
HARDINGE 59 HEADSTOCK. I bought this because it complements the above lathe bed. Stripped and ready for paint. Serial number 59-14975. 2-belt through the base V-belt drive. HLVH 5c taper spindle nose. Complete with quick release collet closer part on rear end of spindle, but I do not have the balance of the quick release collet closer. The covered drive is obviously a whole lot safer and the double V-belts provide more driving power than flat belt drives. It saves tabletop space too. $450. Buy this with the above lathe bed and save $100 off the package. Buy it with a compound and save another $100 off the package.
BELT TENSIONER FOR FLAT BELT DRIVE HARDINGE OR ELGIN LATHES. Will work with other lathes as well. Should work with most lathes as is. I left the hardwood arm that holds the wheel long so that it may be repositioned for use on significantly larger lathes. The 1 11/16" wide steel wheel weighs 4# 10 ounces. It runs on 2 needle bearings on a shoulder screw shaft. Take a look at the lathe belt without the belt tensioner in use. I installed that belt myself. It is a new leather belt installed as tightly as I could manage on the fixed position cone head pulleys. Note how much the belt is further tensioned with the belt tensioner in use (the lathe wheels and belt are moving in this photo). The belt tensioner needs to be clamped to the tabletop to keep it in position. This belt tensioner dramatically reduces belt slippage and increases the driving power of flat leather belt driven lathes. I offer it for sale only because I can make another for my own use. The asking price will cover my time and materials. $350.
RUBBER FACE FOR YOUR LEATHER BELT. The leather belt on this lathe is decades old. A new leather belt would not perform any better. Adding a rubber face dramatically increased the driving power of this flat leather belt driven lathe. The leather provides the dimensional strength, the rubber provides the grip. The 1/16" thick very sticky back rubber that I added to the inside face of the leather belt was designed as EPDM rubber roofing tape. I had to order 200 linear feet minimum. Although my leather belt was properly sized for my cone head pulleys, there was plenty of room on the inside for this rubber. It was not necessary to remove the belt to install the rubber. It only took only minutes to install the cut-to-width rubber. The rubber does a great job of reducing slippage and increasing the driving power of flat leather belt driven lathes. I offer it because I have some left over from the EPDM roof I put on my shop. I can supply it in 5" width by most any length at $.75 per square inch. I made a jig to cut it and I can neatly cut it to width for you at $20 for smaller lengths, more for longer lengths. Without the appropriate jig it is difficult to cut neatly. Order a little extra length to make sure you have enough; do not stretch the rubber during application. I recommend that the width be slightly less than the width of your belt; you do not want the very sticky back protruding beyond the edges of the belt. It does not matter if you use a Clipper belt lacer, a glued joint or hand stitching; I put the rubber right over the joint to give a continuous gripping surface. Rubber lined belts run very quietly and have lots of driving power. You will find yourself cutting at higher speeds and taking heavier cuts. You will enljoy the quieter, more efficient performance of your lathe. This is probably the most cost effective improvement you could add to your lathe. I have now added a rubber face to the above lathe; wow, what power!
Lathe bench with drawers. The lathe itself has been sold. It was uneconomical to ship the bench. It would take very little time to mount a Cataract bench lathe on this bench because short bed and long bed Cataract bench lathes have already been mounted on it. I plugged the holes, but the plugs would be easy to remove. It could serve for virtually any benchtop lathe, or for that matter for just about anything else. It is a fairly ordinary commercial workbench. The metal drawer on the left is about 20X20" inside dimensions, with a sliding tray inside. The wood drawer on the right is about 18X26" inside dimensions and is presently set up to receive Hardinge 4c collets in front and miscellany in the rear. The bench top is 28" deep, 60" long, with metal fence around 3 sides. It is 34" high. There is a full length underneath shelf about 9" off the floor. The legs are metal. The top is about 2" thick maple. $250 picked up as illustrated with both drawers. The wood drawer is one I custom built. I utilized very long and high weight capacity ball bearing slides that cost me over $100. If you leave the drawer with me, the price is $175.
Overhead line shaft drive system. The 1st 4 images are ones that were sent to me by the previous owner. I did not receive the wood pieces nor did I receive the electrical box and the diagonal supports, so those items are not included. The last 3 images were sent to me by another customer and are included so you can see other overhead drive shaft systems. The last image of a "Cataract 3 speed universal counter," from "The Cataract - Precision Bench Lathes and Attachments, Catalogue No. 15" is most like what I have, the essential difference being that one is designed to be wall mounted, the other table mounted. The 3 speeds come from the cone pulley. It is also called a "belt shifting mechanism." The fingers and the pairs of same size pulleys (one of each pair is fixed to the shaft and the other is free to turn) and the fingers which provide leverage for shifting the belts with a stick constitute the belt shifting mechanism. The main drive shaft was cut down to 23" long, so I am including a 38" stainless steel shaft of the proper diameter. There are 3 pairs of same diameter pulleys on the main drive shaft; each pair has one pulley fixed to the shaft and one pulley free to turn. The fingers, which are not very well illustrated, are used in conjunction with a stick to shift the belt from one pulley to another. The odd pulley at the end of the shaft drives the separate shaft that is used in conjuction with a grinding spindle on its own compound as seen in the illustrations from the Rivett catalog. What could you use this for today? It is designed to drive 3 separate machines and a grinding head from the one shaft, simultaneously or one at a time. Add a cone drive pulley for your cone head lathe if necessary. The main drive shaft is .875" in diameter. Some of us still use this older technology. It is simply functional to me, but virtually everyone who is invited into my shop from non-tool-hound type customers to old time machine aficionados to tool and die makers marvel at this technology from another era. The usage I listed is not the only usage for this overhead countershaft. In the early 1900's, very elaborate drive systems were commonly utilized. You will find some examples here $400
5" SET CROWNED PULLEYS. Cast iron. 5" diameter. One fixed pulley with 3/4" hole with set screw. One freewheeling pulley with 3/4" hole with Fafnir bearing. 1.5" wide. These would be used together in a "belt shifting mechanism" as described in the above listing. $200.
FLANGED STEP PULLEY or CONE HEAD PULLEY. Cast iron. About 4" high with 7/8" diameter hole with key and set screw. Diameter of the pulleys are 3.5, 4.5 and 5.5". Width of each pulley is about 1.125". If you have a lathe with a step pulley, you need a step pulley on your countershaft in order to properly utilize the step pulley on your lathe to give you a full range of speeds. I see so many fine old cone head lathes butchered because the owner could not find a cone head pulley to match the lathe. Unfortunately, the countershaft pulleys oftentimes get separated from the lathe. Understand that the pulley diameters do not have to exactly match the diameters of the pulleys on your cone head lathe if you mount the driver pulley on an adjustable mount. The width of the pulley does not have to match either; the belt needs to be sized to the smaller width pulley only. These are crowned pulleys; the running belt will find the pulley center. $100.
4c DRAWBAR. The drawbar is 7.75" long to the handle shoulder. The handle is held on with a set screw, so you could shorten or extend the drawbar if necessary. All metal construction, NEW-OLD-STOCK from an old hardware store still in business that had a small stock of precision tooling leftover from another era. $100.
Taper spindle toolholders and diamond laps. 20 pieces total. The 2 on the far right hold 1/8" and 3/32" shafts. The 2 next to them stabilize flat disks. The one with a grinding wheel on it has a screw in the end. Most of the others are diamond laps. The shafts taper from about .200" to .150" over a 1" length. $300 for the lot. These came in with a lot of Hardinge equipment, but I do not know what they fit.
Hardinge Live Center, #2 Morse taper. Labeled "Hardinge Bros., Elmira, NY." Well used. Tested; performs well. $50
Hardinge Center or Steady Rest for 9" swing split bed lathe. Note that the 3 support bars are double ended. One end is hardened steel. The other end has roller bearings. Roller bearings take up less room than ball bearings allowing you to cut larger diameter material. Bearing supports are necessary for supporting soft materials without digging into the stock. The roller bearings work on hard material too. The lathe is in motion while I cut off the end of the plastic tube. Included with the center rest are 6 extra bearings. These are the same bearings that I use in my belt tensioner which is also visible in this photo. I have been using those same bearings for years and have not had to replace them yet. Hold down hardware for your split bed lathe is also included. $350. I can supply an identical steady rest without the roller bearings for $250. I can supply 9 roller bearings for $30.
You need to be aware of reality concerning Hardinge lathe compounds. A new DSC Hardinge compound and crossslide would cost you $6500.....except that they are no longer available new. A rebuilder charges $5800 for rebuilding a DSC. Of course, virtually no one has their DSC compound rebuilt at that price. Older compounds for the split bed lathe and parts for them are not available new, so it is virtually impossible to rebuild them. Scarcity makes the older compounds in good condition even more valuable than more modern compounds. Compounds are an integral part of your lathe. Your lathe is worth little without a good compound. Take care of the compound you have. Be willing to pay a fair price for a good used compound.
How I package your compound for shipment. This Hardinge DSC crossslide/compound has been $OLD. The 2nd picture shows how I package your compound for shipment. I remove the handles and build a rigid insulation cradle for the compound. I fill up the box with rigid foam; the finished package is a solid brick of foam. You can expect anything I ship to you to be packaged well. It is necessary to package things well and insure them. Insurers do not pay for negligently packaged items. Packages must be insured to protect against lost packages or mishandled packages. You and I are both protected!
Hardinge DSC crossslide/compound longitudinal feed screw. This has very little wear on the screw, but the shaft is bent. It is possible to straighten the screw. This was damaged in transit to me. A high percentage of compounds shipped to me are broken in transit because people do not know how to package the compounds. No compound I have shipped has been damaged in transit; see above for how to package compounds. $75
Hardinge 100 unit dial from the same assembly that the above screw came from. $50
Hardinge cataract crossslide/compound model 9B for 9" swing lathes. Made in Elmira, NY, so it is a late one. It has slight to moderate wear. This may be held onto a split bed lathe with either your original T-bolt or with a better holding modern yoke. The height from the bed to the top of the compound is 3.275". This compound also fits Stark 9" split bed lathes as illustrated. The compound is $850 without the yoke or $950 with the yoke.
Hardinge cataract mounting yoke for use with modern crossslide/compound and older split bed lathes. The one in the foreground is the one I am offering. The one mounted on the lathe is painted to match that lathe. The one in the foreground would need to have the lock nut shortened for use on this particular lathe. The 2nd photo shows one in use. This particular mounting yoke has been sold. I have others. $100.
ELGIN DOUBLE CROSS SLIDE for 9" swing lathe. Rack and pinion transverse movement, with adjustable stops to control extent of movement. Shown on a Hardinge/Elgin 9" lathe--for which it was designed. This is a direct copy of a Hardinge crossslide. In the last photo you see it being used with a Hardinge Model E rotating lever action tool holder and in 2 other photos you see a tool holder block mounted upon this cross slide; these parts are available as accessories and are listed below. This is for the split bed lathes. A hold down bolt is built into this cross slide. Use your compound hold down nut with that hold down bolt. $700.
DOUBLE CROSS SLIDES are, by design, more accurate in the cross movement than are compounds. Both of these cross slides straddle the lathe bed, eliminating any chance of misalignment. Here the below listed 9" Hardinge cross slide stop was positioned to end the tool travel at the exact center of the workpiece. This workpiece was perfectly faced off. The face of the workpiece is absolutely flat. Have you tested your compound of late? Most compounds will give you a slightly dished or raised center. If you need to face off a part as square and as flat as possible, use a cross slide. There is no play in the longitudinal direction as there is in a compound. There is no feed screw to wear unevenly. Pushing a lever is a lot less work than turning a handscrew. You do not need to adjust it or check it for square. Of course, cross slides are not just for facing off perfectly. In the last image I am using the cross slide to remove a lot of waste quickly.
HARDINGE DOUBLE CROSS SLIDE for 9" swing lathe. Rack and pinion transverse movement, with adjustable stops to control extent of movement. This is for the split bed lathes. Use your lathe T-bolt from your compound to hold this to your lathe bed. Hardinge Model E rotating lever action tool holders and tool holder blocks are designed to be used with this cross slide; these parts are available as accessories and are listed below. See photos immediately above and below of this double cross slide. $700.
TOOL HOLDER BLOCK. Designed to work with the above listed Hardinge/Elgin double cross slides. 5/8" wide slot. If purchased with a double cross slide, $80. If purchased separately, $120.
TOOL HOLDER BLOCK. Designed to work with the above listed Hardinge/Elgin double cross slides. 3/8" wide slot. This one was made or modified to work with the Empire cut off tool holder. Note that the T-bolts are off center and the top plates are custom; the end result allows the cut off blade to be near the edge of the double cross slide. If purchased with a double cross slide or with the Empire cut off toolholder, $80. If purchased separately, $120.
Hardinge rear T-slot thread chasing striker plate. Illustrated out-of-position in order to show the rear T-slot bed and Hardinge name plate. Mild steel with hardened, ground and polished insert. $OLD, or rather traded for a different Hardinge thread chasing attachment accessory. I welcome such trades. The Striker plate contact screw is still available, 1/4-26TPI, hardened to just the right amount, RARE, you could make your own, of course, but not for $75.
Hardinge Taper attachment for thread chasing lathe. You may tilt that hardened striker plate in either direction and cut internal or external tapered threads. This is the only one seen by either the octogenarian Hardinge collector or myself. Before I put it on my web page it was fun to ask visiting Hardinge afficionados what it was. None had ever seen one before or even knew that a taper attachment had ever been made for the Hardinge thread chasing lathe. EXTREMELY RARE, $600.
Hardinge thread chasing attachment component, "banjo." Holds the gears between the spindle gear and the rear T-slot mounted shaft. $200.
Hardinge head stock stop pin. Engages holes in the head stock to hold head stock in place for changing chucks, etc. Original part, properly hardened and finished. 5/16" diameter. 2.75" overall length. $50.
Rear bar stop for Hardinge thread chasing attachment. $100.
60 tooth Hardinge gear. 1.746" ID. 0.355" wide. $50.
Adapter for Hardinge thread chasing attachment. I made this to allow me to use a Hardinge thread chasing attachment on a bed that had some holes in the tail end for a different thread chasing attachment, but not located in the proper location for my thread chasing attachment. The 3/8-24TPI screw is a Hardinge screw. The 1/4" dowel pins are spaced 2" on center. The threaded hole is 1/4-28TPI. The top cutout is the width of the T-slot and allowed me to properly position the headstock. $50.
Hardinge Morse Taper #2 drill plate. Put it in your tailstock and a drill in the headstock and you have a horizontal drill press. Of course it has other uses as well. Face it with superfine sandpaper and finish the cut off face of a workpiece in the lathe. Stick it in your Clausing mill head and use your mill to press a bearing into place. Use your imagination. Uncommonly found. $120
Hardinge lever action collet quick closer part. The gap is ~1.5". The block on the other side is ~0.75". $95
Hardinge Cataract lathe parts tray. Mounts in front of headstock. See photos of them on my lathes. The mounting holes are about 5 5/8" to 5 11/16" apart. $150
Hardinge lantern style toolholder with straight holder, left hand holder, right hand holder, over 2# of toolbits. Height adjustable. This lantern toolholder fits into all 6 of the Hardinge and Elgin 9" compounds I have in stock. The bar that goes into the T-slot is 3/16" thick, 1.093" wide. The toolpost is .742" diameter. It accepts 1/4" toolbits. $125
3 Hardinge lantern style toolholders with many toolbit holders. All toolbit holders fit all 3 lantern toolholders. All 3 lantern toolholders fit into all 6 of the Hardinge and Elgin 9" compounds I have in stock. The bar that goes into the T-slot is 3/16" thick, 1 to 1 1/8" wide. $250 for 3 lantern toolholders and all toolbit holders. You will also get over 2# of toolbits.
BROKEN Hardinge lantern style toolholder fits into all 6 of the Hardinge and Elgin 9" compounds I have in stock. The bar that goes into the T-slot is 3/16" thick, 1 to 1 1/8" wide. FOR PARTS. $25.
Hardinge lantern style toolholder for Hardinge and Elgin 7" compounds. It is the one on the right sitting next to a 9" version. The bar that goes into the T-slot is 3/16" thick, 7/8" wide. I have no toolbit holders to fit it. $60.
INCOMPLETE Hardinge lantern style toolholders for Hardinge and Elgin 7" compounds. The bar that goes into the T-slot is 3/16" thick, 7/8" wide. I suggest you buy these with the above listed toolholder for spare parts. $30.
Tight quarters turning toolholder custom made for Hardinge lathes. Lots of clearance with this toolholder. Accepts 3/8" toolbits and holds them @ 1.095" above the compound. T-bolt and nut not included. $150.
TURNING and BORING BAR TOOLHOLDER custom made for Hardinge lathes. What you get is what you see in the 1st 2 pictures. That is a 1/2" diameter shank carbide tipped boring bar in the toolholder; the cutting tip sits 1.095" above the top of the compound. 3/8" carbide tipped toolbits also sit at that same height. T-bolt and nut not included. $100.
BORING BAR TOOLHOLDER. Made for use with an Elgin Toolworks 9" lathe compound such as illsustrated on the above ALL ORIGINAL VINTAGE ELGIN LATHE. It was made by the technical training school instructor I bought the lathe from. You will not find another boring bar holder that provides better stability than this one. The toolbit cutting height is about 1.035" above the compound top. The toolholder may be cut down as required by milling the bottom surface of the main toolholder block. Note that the T-slot in your compound must be parallel with the bed. Accepts 1/2" shank boring bars. $100.
CUTOFF TOOLHOLDER. Made for use with an Elgin Toolworks 9" lathe compound such as illsustrated on the above ALL ORIGINAL VINTAGE ELGIN LATHE. The toolbit cutting height is about 1.255" above the compound top. The toolholder may be cut down as required by milling the bottom surfaces of the main toolholder block. Accepts 2 different size cutoff bars, one of which is included. $100.
Hardinge, Elmira, NY, USA, D9 toolholder. Height adjustable. Accepts 3/8" toolbits. $150.
Hardinge, Elmira, NY, USA, D9 toolholder. Height adjustable. Accepts 3/8" toolbits. $125.
Spacers to extend the range of the Hardinge D9 height adjustable toolholder or D9 copies. They are surface ground. They are .200", .165" and .110" thick. They allow you to use smaller tool bits and still be able to bring the bits up to center height or they allow you to use the toolholder on a compound or whatever you may need more height. $20 each or 3 for $50
Hardinge, Elmira, NY, USA, STL 4-toolbit rotating toolholder. Algining these toolholders is easy: Hold a square against the side of the compound and the side of the toolholder while locking down the toolholder and all will be square and remain square. This toolholder was not disassembled, cleaned, lubed and adjusted because it did not need it. It is beautifully designed and made mostly of hardened steel. It is in perfect functional condition. Because there is no height adjustment, spacers may be required for use with some compounds. The toolbit slots are only .369" high, requiring that you use 5/16" toolbits or mill about .010" off the top of your 3/8" toolbit shanks; this takes minutes and does not compromise your toolbits because the bottom of the toolbit is your reference side. 2 screws hold down the toolbit; the 3rd screw serves as a stop. The 4-way toolholder rotates 360 degrees with detents every 90 degrees. $90.
Hardinge, Elmira, NY, USA, L18 quick change toolblock. This is Hardinge' best toolblock. It will work on new or old compounds, although the T-nut may need to be cut down to fit some older compounds. The many different tollholders made to fit the tollholder block are all height adjustable. The toolholders accept boring bars, cutoff blades, 3/8" carbide bits or HSS bits, 3/8" shaft Thinbits, knurling bits, etc. The toolholders may be installed in either of 2 positions and the toolblock may be installed in any number of positions. In the last image of the toolblock mounted on the compound for the purpose of turning a 7.5" diameter circular plate made of plastic, the toolholder is mounted 180 degrees to its usual position in order to position the circular grooving tool (being used to turn the OD) farther away from the spindle than the cross slide would otherwise allow. The toolblock is easy to align with a trisquare, but you may install it at any angle on the compound. Only the toolblock is being offered. I have toolblocks mounted on multiple compounds, but I recently sold a compound so I have an extra toolblock available. It seems like I never have enough of the toolholders because I leave toolbits mounted in the toolholders ready for use. $200.
Hardinge bench center, with 24 position dividing head with 5c collet drawbar, with screwfeed adjustable tailstock, 5 T-nuts. $500. I have 2 of the dividing heads. The cleaner one is illustrated on the bench. In the 2nd photo you see the bottom of the cleaner one on the left. Those round keys are ones I made for use on my Clausing milling machine. They are not included. The original keys looked like those on the bench tailstock on the right. The dividing head in the center is not as clean as the one included with the lathe; it was used on a grinder and the grinder marks are visible. It works fine and if you choose to buy the bench with it instead of the cleaner one, the price of the bench is $400.
5C UNUSUAL ADAPTER. Fits into Hardinge 5c head stock like a collet and is drawn tight with the collet drawbar. Useful for adapting any number of items to a 5c head stock. Inside diameter is 1.25" with an inside depth of 2" with a set screw. Made of steel with a high tech finish. Very high quality. NEW. $125.
NEED A COLLET RACK? Think outside the box. Draw a centerline down the middle of your rack top, then draw appropriate sized circles as illustrated to place your collets equidistant from each other. Intersecting lines are the centers of the holes to be bored.
AVAILABLE 5C ROUND COLLETS: 1/16, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32, 11/64, 3/16, 7/32,17/64, 9/32, 19/64, 5/16, 13/16, 11/32, 21/64, 23/64, 3/8, 25/64, 13/32, 7/16, 15/32, 1/2, 33/64, 17/32, 35/64, 9/16, 19/32, 39/64, 5/8, 43/64, 23/32, 3/4, 49/64, 25/32, 7/8, 1 1/16, 1 1/32. I willing to trade for these 5c round collets: 1/64, 3/64, 5/64, 7/64, 29/64, 31/64, 27/32, 1 1/64, 1 3/64, 1 5/64, 1 7/64. I am willing to trade for square, hexagonal and unusual collets as well.
1/4" 3C COLLET The Inside diameter at the bottom of the collet is 1/2", which is the maximum diameter of a 3c collet. 26TPI threads. $30.
Faceplates do not extend out as far from the spindle nose as do chucks, therefore they run more accurately. Faceplates will hold larger diameter stock and odd shaped stock that will not fit into chucks. It is good to have more than one. I have a special jig mounted on one that I leave in place for convenience.
PLAIN 9" diameter faceplate for HARDINGE 5c HLVH taper taper spindle nose. Very clean. Shows little use. Fits the spindle nose well and runs true. $175
6-jaw chucks do the best job of holding round tubing; more jaws grip better and distort less. 4-jaw chucks do the next best job of holding round tubing. If you can only afford one chuck, buy a 4-jaw chuck because you will be able to hold rectangular and round stock. 4-jaw chucks have reversible jaws.
HARDINGE USED REPLACEMENT INSIDE JAWS for 3-JAW CHUCK. The used set of jaws are each stamped with the number "210" and the letter "A" in the groove. $60.
WHITON 3-JAW CHUCK with inside jaws only. The letters "EP" are found on the chuck body and on each jaw. The scroll on the chuck body and the teeth on all 3 jaws is undamaged. Works very smoothly. This chuck fits the spindle nose well and runs true on a Hardinge HLVH 5c taper spindle nose. I put a blue dot on the face of the chuck and illuminated the chuck-in-motion with a repeating strobe light; if there were any runout, you would see it in the last image. $175
SET OF INSIDE JAWS FOR 3-JAW CHUCK. Serial number 16249. These are not Hardinge jaws; they may fit a Skinner or Union chuck or some other chuck. The jaws are 0.428" wide, 1.519" long and 1.247" high. $50
HARDINGE 36HC 4-JAW CHUCK. Reversible jaws. For Hardinge HLVH 5c taper spindle nose. The serial numbers on the jaws match the serial number on the chuck body. Of course, this chuck runs true on a Hardinge HLVH 5c taper spindle nose. $400
FACTORY MADE CHUCK KEY for HARDINGE 36HC 4-JAW CHUCK. I have only one chuck key for my Hardinge 4-jaw chucks, so it is priced separately from the above listed chuck. $50 with above chuck.
Kitigawa 4-jaw chuck. Reversible jaws. For Hardinge HLVH 5c taper spindle nose. Chuck and jaws labeled "1700." Jaws are extra wide and hold stock better. Chuck is 6" in diameter (most Hardinge chucks are 5" in diameter) so you can also hold larger size stock. With chuck key. Clean! Tight! $400
7.5" 6-JAW BUCK CHUCK. Tru-adjust. With inside and outside jaws. The serial numbers on the jaws match the serial number on the chuck body. Note the special feature of the inside jaws that allows you to hold a dime or even a smaller item. With Hardinge 5c taper spindle nose backing plate machined from a Hardinge hardened 9" faceplate; runs true and works with the Tru-adjust Buck Chuck. I use this on a rotary indexing table with a Hardinge 5c taper spindle nose on a milling machine for accurately locating holes concentrically. I also occasionally use it on a Hardinge lathe with a ball bearing spindle. I also have available a 2 1/4x8TPI threaded backing plate for this chuck; see Tools web page. Great chuck in great condition. $1000.
ROTARY TABLE with HARDINGE 5C TAPER SPINDLE NOSE. This is the rotary table I mentioned in the above listing. I had a Hardinge 5c taper spindle nose centerless ground to a "slip fit" to the Nikken rotary table. In the right foreground is a short drawbar I made that allows me to use collets on the rotary table. I may now machine something on the lathe and move the chuck with the workpiece to the rotary table on the milling machine for further machining--usually locating holes concentrically. When you mount a workpiece in a chuck there will be some distortion of the workpiece. When you remove the workpiece from the chuck and then remount it in another chuck, there will be a different distortion of the workpiece. The job I was working on at the time I came up with this idea would not tolerate any such distortion. It required that a large hole be bored in the workpiece with several small holes located concentrically around the perimeter of the large hole. This was the most efficient solution to that problem and it has served me well for many years since. I use it frequently. This is not for sale. It is just an idea that you are welcome to utilize. I do have a surplus-to-my-needs new-old-stock 12 position quick indexing plate (I am using a 24 position plate) available for the Nikken which I am willing to trade for a Nikken quick indexing plate that will not duplicate my capabilities. I may be willing to buy your Nikken quick indexing plate outright.
HARDINGE OIL FITTING WANTED. These are probably specific to Hardinge equipment. The threads are about a #12 by 26TPI. Yes, I know that is not a standard size. The hexagonal nut is 1/4" across the flats. This is most often found on tailstocks.