THE ELGIN TOOL WORKS STORY: I am frequently asked about the history of the Elgin Tool Works and their relationship with Hardinge. Elgin machines are virtually identical to Hardinge machines. The Elgin Tool Works was started by a renegade group of Hardinge employees who realized that most Hardinge patents had expired. In most any corporation you will have disgruntled employees; this is par for the course. This renegade group of former Hardinge employees made machinery that was every bit as good as Hardinge; in many cases Elgin machinery is beefier than Hardinge just because, I am guessing, they wanted to save design time rather than steel and weight. The nameplate on the lathe below reads, "Elgin Tool Works, 1770 Berteau Ave. at Ravenswood Ave., Chicago, IL." That was done to show that the Elgin Tool Works was just across the street from the Hardinge Manufacturing Company at the intersection of Ravenswood and Berteau Avenues. Elgin Tool Works was capitalizing on the success of the Hardinge Manufacturing Company. The Hardinge Brothers were not stupid; it wasn't long before Hardinge bought out Elgin Tool Works. For awhile some lathes were made and labeled as was one of the below listed lathes, "Hardinge, Elgin, manufactured by Hardinge Manufacturing Company, Elgin Tool Works Division, Ravenswood, Chicago, USA." Ravenswood and Berteau Avenues are in my neighborhood. One of these days I will take some pictures of the factory buildings as they are today.
Hardinge Elgin 5c lathe. If you have ever wondered exactly what the relationship between Hardinge and Elgin was, look at the nameplate that was on this lathe. I removed the nameplate and the forward/reverse and low/high plates from this lathe in order to do a proper job of painting it. The old paint on the lathe was removed, bad defects in the castings were filled, Sherwin Williams primer and industrial enamel were applied--but not everywhere--no paint was put where paint does not belong. I won't put the nameplates back on perhaps until I sell it. I do use the lathe. It would be difficult to keep the nameplates in the condition they are in on the lathe. The lathe is on an original bench of the best design that I have seen. The bench end legs are one piece cast steel tied together with a couple of steel T-bars in the rear and with the 2.125" thick maple butcher block top and lower shelf. The butcher block top is held together with through bolts across the width and glued. There is a steel drawer and a wood shelf to hold 56 collets. This lathe has been sold. I leave it up for your information.
ALL ORIGINAL VINTAGE ELGIN LATHE. This vintage Elgin literature illustrates an Elgin 5c lathe. Also find photo of one of the lathes that I use. You will see little difference. My lathe is as close to what Elgin offered new 60 years ago as you are likely to find. Note the 60 position dividing head, the 4 lock stop positions, the dual T-slot compound, the #2 Morse taper tailstock. It is in extremely clean condition with very little wear for a 60 year old lathe. I have owned it for 20+ of its 60 years. I bought it from the owner of a technical training school. It was his personal lathe. It was the only lathe left in the cavernous building that housed the technical training school. He had bought it new and was selling it because he was quite old and was retiring and giving up the building--having already given up the technical training school long before. Having just sold my more modern Hardinge lathe illustrated above, which had a better drive system, I have gone back to using this lathe. I will leave the photos up because my web pages are as much about providing information for you as about selling equipment. Just below find my solutions to improving the drive systems of these older flat leather belt driven lathes.
STARK 4 1/2 LATHE. Because this lathe is so similar to a Hardinge Cataract lathe, I provide a link to it here. 9" swing lathe with 20" + between centers. Great drive train with a 280 to 3500RPM variable speed drive with clutch and brake built-in. Ball bearing headstock. Set up to accept a thread chasing attachment. This lathe is listed on its own page: STARK 4 1/2 LATHE
BELT TENSIONER FOR FLAT BELT DRIVE HARDINGE OR ELGIN LATHES. Will work with other lathes as well. Should work with most lathes as is. I left the hardwood arm that holds the wheel long so that it may be repositioned for use on significantly larger lathes. The 1 11/16" wide steel wheel weighs 4# 10 ounces. It runs on 2 needle bearings on a shoulder screw shaft. Take a look at the lathe belt without the belt tensioner in use. I installed that belt myself. It is a new leather belt installed as tightly as I could manage on the fixed position cone head pulleys. Note how much the belt is further tensioned with the belt tensioner in use (the lathe wheels and belt are moving in this photo). The belt tensioner needs to be clamped to the tabletop to keep it in position. This belt tensioner dramatically reduces belt slippage and increases the driving power of flat leather belt driven lathes. I offer it for sale only because I can make another for my own use. The asking price will cover my time and materials. $350.
RUBBER FACE FOR YOUR LEATHER BELT. The leather belt on this lathe is decades old. A new leather belt would not perform any better. Adding a rubber face dramatically increased the driving power of this flat leather belt driven lathe. The leather provides the dimensional strength, the rubber provides the gripping strength. The 1/16" thick very sticky back rubber that I added to the inside face of the leather belt was designed for a totally different purpose. I had to order 200 linear feet minimum. Although my leather belt was properly sized for my cone head pulleys, there was plenty of room on the inside for this rubber. It was not necessary to remove the belt to install the rubber. It only took about 5 minutes to install the cut-to-width rubber. The rubber does a great job of reducing slippage and increasing the driving power of flat leather belt driven lathes. I offer it because I have some left over from the job for which I originally bought it. I can supply it in 5" width by most any length at $.75 per square inch. I made a jig to cut it and I can neatly cut it to width for you at $20 for smaller lengths, more for longer lengths. Order a little extra length to make sure you have enough; do not stretch the rubber. I recommend that the width be slightly less than the width of your belt; you do not want the very sticky back protruding beyond the edges of the belt. It does not matter if you use a Clipper belt lacer, a glued joint or hand stitching; I put the rubber right over the joint to give a continuous gripping surface. Rubber lined belts run very quietly and have lots of driving power. You will find yourself cutting at higher speeds and taking heavier cuts. You will enljoy the quieter, more efficient performance of your lathe. This is probably the most cost effective improvement you could add to your lathe. I have now added a rubber face to the above lathe; wow, what power!
HARDINGE LATHE BED. I bought this because it was so very clean. Because I picked it up in person, I was able to evaluate the condition. I put a straight edge on it and found it to be flat. I measured the thickness of the ways. They are a full 5/16" thick, which means that the ways are in original condidion. That is the original frosting, or scraping, on the ways. The ways have not been, nor do they need to be reground and rescraped. This bed is beefier than your usual cataract lathe bed, therefore more stable. You may use your Cataract head stock or a more modern through the base V-belt driven headstock on this lathe bed. All accessories you need to complete the lathe are readily available on the used market. Let this be your great condition foundation. The fast/slow and forward/stop/reverse levers that are missing from this lathe are, in fact, seldom used unless you have a lathe on the original base cabinet and all the mechanical linkages and electrical controls are functioning. The needle bearings for those levers are in good shape and are still in the holes. I packed the bearings with grease and machined Nylon plugs to fill those holes. All the paint is stripped off; the bed is ready for repainting. Overall length of base is 38". The inverted V-bed is the standard Cataract shape--tapering from 2 9/16" to 3" at the base of the ways. I bought this for my own use, and will put it into use one day, unless you buy it from me before I get around to the work. You could not have your lathe bed reground and rescraped for less, and it would not be as well done as this factory original piece. It is also a lot of work to strip the paint off of a lathe. $300
Lathe bench with drawers. The lathe itself has been sold. It was uneconomical to ship the bench. It would take very little time to mount a Cataract bench lathe on this bench because short bed and long bed Cataract bench lathes have already been mounted on it. I plugged the holes, but the plugs would be easy to remove. It could serve for virtually any benchtop lathe, or for that matter for just about anything else. It is a fairly ordinary commercial workbench. The metal drawer on the left is about 20X20" inside dimensions, with a sliding tray inside. The wood drawer on the right is about 18X26" inside dimensions and is presently set up to receive Hardinge 4c collets in front and miscellany in the rear. The bench top is 28" deep, 60" long, with metal fence around 3 sides. It is 34" high. There is a full length underneath shelf about 9" off the floor. The legs are metal. The top is about 2" thick maple. $250 picked up as illustrated with both drawers. The wood drawer is one I custom built. I utilized very long and high weight capacity ball bearing slides that cost me over $100. If you leave the drawer with me, the price is $175.
Overhead line shaft drive system. The 1st 4 images are ones that were sent to me by the previous owner. I did not receive the wood pieces nor did I receive the electrical box and the diagonal supports, so those items are not included. The last 3 images were sent to me by another customer and are included so you can see other overhead drive shaft systems. The last image of a "Cataract 3 speed universal counter," from "The Cataract - Precision Bench Lathes and Attachments, Catalogue No. 15" is most like what I have, the essential difference being that one is designed to be wall mounted, the other table mounted. The 3 speeds come from the cone pulley. It is also called a "belt shifting mechanism." The fingers and the pairs of same size pulleys (one of each pair is fixed to the shaft and the other is free to turn) and the fingers which provide leverage for shifting the belts with a stick constitute the belt shifting mechanism. The main drive shaft was cut down to 23" long, so I am including a 38" stainless steel shaft of the proper diameter. There are 3 pairs of same diameter pulleys on the main drive shaft; each pair has one pulley fixed to the shaft and one pulley free to turn. The fingers, which are not very well illustrated, are used in conjunction with a stick to shift the belt from one pulley to another. The odd pulley at the end of the shaft drives the separate shaft that is used in conjuction with a grinding spindle on its own compound as seen in the illustrations from the Rivett catalog. What could you use this for today? It is designed to drive 3 separate machines and a grinding head from the one shaft, simultaneously or one at a time. Add a cone drive pulley for your cone head lathe if necessary. The main drive shaft is .875" in diameter. Some of us still use this older technology. It is simply functional to me, but virtually everyone who is invited into my shop from non-tool-hound type customers to old time machine aficionados to tool and die makers marvel at this technology from another era. The usage I listed is not the only usage for this overhead countershaft. In the early 1900's, very elaborate drive systems were commonly utilized. You will find some examples here $500
5" SET CROWNED PULLEYS. Cast iron. 5" diameter. One fixed pulley with 3/4" hole with set screw. One freewheeling pulley with 3/4" hole with Fafnir bearing. 1.5" wide. These would be used together in a "belt shifting mechanism" as described in the above listing. $225.
FLANGED PULLEY. Cast iron. 5.25" diameter. 0.75" hole with key slot. 1.25" wide. 1.7" wide overall. 5.75" diameter overall. $90.
Taper spindle toolholders and diamond laps. 20 pieces total. The 2 on the far right hold 1/8" and 3/32" shafts. The 2 next to them stabilize flat disks. The one with a grinding wheel on it has a screw in the end. Most of the others are diamond laps. The shafts taper from about .200" to .150" over a 1" length. $300 for the lot. These came in with a lot of Hardinge equipment, but I do not know what they fit.
Hardinge Center or Steady Rest for 9" swing split bed lathe. Note that the 3 support bars are double ended. One end is hardened steel. The other end has roller bearings. Roller bearings take up less room than ball bearings allowing you to cut larger diameter material. Bearing supports are necessary for supporting soft materials without digging into the stock. The roller bearings work on hard material too. The lathe is in motion while I cut off the end of the plastic tube. Included with the center rest are 6 extra bearings. These are the same bearings that I use in my belt tensioner which is also visible in this photo. I have been using those same bearings for years and have not had to replace them yet. Hold down hardware for your split bed lathe is also included. $350.
Hardinge DSC crossslide/compound for Hardinge 9" swing narrow dovetail bed lathes, complete with mounting hardware. Not for Cataract split bed lathes, although it can be altered to work with them. There are double nuts on the feed screws that allow you to remove excess play. The tapered gib has an adjustment screw to take up play. This lathe has 2 V-grooves 4.075" apart cut into the bottom, which I guess may fit a South Bend 9" lathe bed. Newly cleaned, lubed and adjusted; no excess play in this compound. $OLD. I leave it up because it relates to the below listed parts.
Feedscrews for Hardinge DSC crossslide/compound like the one illustrated above. The top 2 screws are what I am offering. The bottom screw is a worn out screw from an unknown lathe. These Hardinge screws are slightly used. I measured the thickness of the screw thread at the ends and in the middle of the screws. There is not more than 0.003" difference on one screw and not more than 0.001" difference on the other screw. As good as these screws are, I do not know why anyone would replace them. They are straight, not bent. They should perform well on your DSC compound. Screws are 0.500" in diameter by 10TPI. Only one set left. Price new ones!!! $350 set.
Gibs for Hardinge DSC crossslide/compound like the one illustrated above. These came in with the DSC compound listed above. I will be shipping all of these to you. You will return what you do not need. Used, but show little wear. $200 for all. Return all but 2 and get $125 back.
NEW Hardinge DSA-370 gibs, with instructions. These New Gibs came in with the DSC compound listed above. $100 for both.
Hardinge clamp, sans lever for DSC crossslide/compound for more modern Hardinge dovetail lathes. I removed this from the bottom of the compound when I converted the compound for use on older older split bed lathes. $30
NEW Hardinge compound parts. 2 tapered gibs and one cross feed screw. One UA-1888 cross feed screw. One CWA-7633 tapered gib. One CH-7630 tapered gib. The screw is 1" diameter by 5TPI. Wrapped in rust resistent paper. Excess length of the Gibs is cut off after they are installed. $250
Hardinge crossslide/compound for 9" swing Cataract split bed lathes. The latest model made for split bed lathes, complete with mounting hardware. This mounting hardware is an improvement over the T-bolt through the split bed, which can turn out of alignment with a heavy cut. I completely disassembled, cleaned, lubed and adjusted this compound. There are 2 sets of ball bearings per lead screw. The gibs are straight, not tapered. There is wear on this compound, but there are adjustable double nuts on the leadscrews that allowed the play to be removed. The height from the bed to the top of the compound is 3.325". The only indication of a manufacturer is the Hardinge logo endplugs that cover the leadscrews. This late model compound with the adjustable double nuts is rarely found configured for the split bed. Most of these late model compounds are configured for the later dovetail bed lathes. $800. Buy it with the Hardinge STD 4-toolbit rotating toolholder illustrated in the last picture and listed below for $1000.
Hardinge cataract crossslide/compound model 9B for 9" swing lathes. Made in Elmira, NY, so it is a late one. It has slight to moderate wear. This may be held onto a split bed lathe with either your original T-bolt or with a better holding modern yoke. The height from the bed to the top of the compound is 3.275". The compound is $450 without the yoke or $550 with the yoke.
Hardinge cataract mounting yoke for use with modern crossslide/compound and older split bed lathes. The one in the foreground is the one I am offering. The one mounted on the lathe is painted to match that lathe. The one in the foreground would need to have the lock nut shortened for use on this particular lathe. The 2nd photo shows one in use. This particular mounting yoke has been sold. I have others. $100. The DSC compound illustrated was altered to fit split bed lathes. I have a DSC compound listed above that has not been altered.
ELGIN DOUBLE CROSS SLIDE. Rack and pinion transverse movement,with adjustable stops to control extent of movement. Shown on a Hardinge/Elgin 9" lathe--which it was designed for. One tool holder block. This is a direct copy of the Hardinge crossslide. $500. In the last photo you see it being used with a swiveling lever action tool holder, which is not included with this cross slide. All my compounds were aligned for turning/boring/facing operations and I did not want to have to realign them. This worked quite well as you can see; there was zero chattering on the bevel of this 8" diameter part. I cleaned up this crossslide for my use; as you can see, it is cleaner in the last photo. This is for the split bed lathes. A hold down bolt is built into the cross slide. Use your compound hold down nut with that hold down bolt.
HARDINGE DOUBLE CROSS SLIDE. Rack and pinion transverse movement,with adjustable stops to control extent of movement. $500. I have the item below + several tool holder blocks available with this and the above cross slide. This is for the split bed lathes. Use your lathe T-bolt from your compound to hold this to your lathe bed. $500.
Hardinge Model E rotating lever action tool holder. This is as clean as you will likely find; it is by far the cleanest I have found. Screw in the screws sticking out of either end to limit the travel of the lever action. Newly cleaned, lubed and adjusted. $265.
Hardinge Model E rotating lever action tool holder. This one is a whole lot cleaner than average, but not as clean as the above. It fits the above Hardinge/Elgin double cross slides better than the above, however, probably just because it has slightly rounded corners from use. Screw in the screws sticking out of either end to limit the travel of the lever action. $265--only with one of the above Hardinge/Elgin double cross slides.
TOOL HOLDER BLOCK. Designed to work with the above listed Hardinge/Elgin double cross slides. 5/8" wide slot. If purchased with a double cross slide, $80. If purchased separately, $120.
TOOL HOLDER BLOCK. Designed to work with the above listed Hardinge/Elgin double cross slides. 5/8" wide slot. If purchased with a double cross slide, $80. If purchased separately, $120.
TOOL HOLDER BLOCK. Designed to work with the above listed Hardinge/Elgin double cross slides. 5/8" wide slot. If purchased with a double cross slide, $80. If purchased separately, $120.
TOOL HOLDER BLOCK. Designed to work with the above listed Hardinge/Elgin double cross slides. 3/8" wide slot. This one was made or modified to work with the Empire cut off tool holder. Note that the T-bolts are off center and the top plates are custom; the end result places the cut off blade at the far left side of the double cross slide where it will cut off the workpiece with the lathe running in reverse. If purchased with a double cross slide, $80. If purchased separately, $120.
EMPIRE TOOL CO. A-36 CUT 0FF TOOL HOLDER + CUT OFF BIT for lathe. Fits into a 3/8" wide slot. T-bolt bottom is 5/8X3/16". $125.
Hardinge rear T-slot thread chasing striker plate. Illustrated out-of-position in order to show the rear T-slot bed and Hardinge name plate. Mild steel with hardened, ground and polished insert. RARE, $150. The Striker plate contact screw is also available, 1/4-26TPI, hardened to just the right amount, RARE, you could make your own, of course, but not for $50.
Hardinge Taper attachment for thread chasing lathe. You may tilt that hardened striker plate in either direction and cut internal or external tapered threads. This is the only one seen by either the octogenarian Hardinge collector or myself. Before I put it on my web page it was fun to ask visiting Hardinge afficionados what it was. None had ever seen one before or even knew that a taper attachment had ever been made for the Hardinge thread chasing lathe. EXTREMELY RARE, $600.
Hardinge thread chasing attachment component, "banjo." Holds the gears between the spindle gear and the rear T-slot mounted shaft. $200.
Rear bar stop for Hardinge thread chasing attachment. $100.
60 tooth gear for Hardinge thread chasing attachment. 1.746" ID. 0.355" thick. $150.
Adapter for Hardinge thread chasing attachment. I made this to allow me to use a Hardinge thread chasing attachment on a bed that had some holes in the tail end for a different thread chasing attachment, but not located in the proper location for my thread chasing attachment. The screw is a Hardinge screw. The screw is 3/8-24TPI. The 1/4" dowel pins are spaced 2" on center. The threaded hole is 1/4-28TPI. The top cutout is the width of the T-slot and allowed me to properly position the headstock. $150.
Hardinge Morse Taper #2 drill plate. Put it in your tailstock and a drill in the headstock and you have a horizontal drill press. Of course it has other uses as well. Face it with superfine sandpaper and finish the cut off face of a workpiece in the lathe. Stick it in your Clausing mill head and use your mill to press a bearing into place. Use your imagination. Uncommonly found. $120
Hardinge lantern style toolholder with straight holder, left hand holder, boring bar holder with boring toolbit, cutoff toolholder with toolbit. The cutoff tool bit or blade is ground on one end to cut threads. This is what was typically used on the old split bed Hardinge lathes in their day. How do you beet the flexibility of such a toolholder? $220. Note: On my tool web page is a lantern style toolpost that is half the size of this. Perhaps it was made for a 3c or 5/4/3c 7" swing lathe compound. There are also more toolbit holders to fit this toolholder.
Spacers to extend the range of the Hardinge D9 height adjustable toolholder or D9 copies. They are surface ground. They are .200", .165" and .110" thick. They allow you to use smaller tool bits and still be able to bring the bits up to center height or they allow you to use the toolholder on a compound or whatever where you need more height. $30 each or 3 for $75
Hardinge, Elmira, NY, USA, STD 4-toolbit rotating toolholder. This toolholder fits the T-slots of the compound with which it is illustrated and an older Elgin compound; it does not fit into the T-slots of a Hardinge 9B compound. I completely disassembled, cleaned, lubed and adjusted this toolholder. It is beautifully designed and made mostly of hardened steel. It is in perfect functional condition. Because there is no height adjustment, spacers may be required for use with some compounds. The compound upon which it is mounted requires a .062" spacer, which is included. The toolbit slots are only .369" high, requiring that you mill about .010" off the top of your 3/8" toolbit shanks; this takes minutes and does not compromise your toolbits because the bottom of the toolbit is your reference side. 2 screws hold down the toolbit; the 3rd screw serves as a stop. The 4-way toolholder rotates 360 degrees. The handle may be turned 180 degrees, which would put the operating lever towards the operator. $300. Buy it with this compound and save $200 off the package. The compound with mounting hardware is listed above.
Hardinge, Elmira, NY, USA, STL 4-toolbit rotating toolholder. This toolholder is like the above, except the base is a little different. Because the STL base does not have a key that goes into the compound T-slot (as does the STD), the handle on the STL may be offset to the right hand side. This is an advantage + it will fit more compounds. Algining these toolholders is easy: Hold a square against the side of the compound and the side of the toolholder while locking down the toolholder and all will be square and remain square. This toolholder was not disassembled, cleaned, lubed and adjusted because it did not need it. Everything else I say about the STD may be said of the STL, so read about the STD. $250.
Hardinge bench center, with 24 position dividing head with 5c collet drawbar, with screwfeed adjustable tailstock, 5 T-nuts. $500. I have 2 of the dividing heads. The cleaner one is illustrated on the bench. In the 2nd photo you see the bottom of the cleaner one on the left. Those round keys are ones I made for use on my Clausing milling machine. They are not included. The original keys looked like those on the bench tailstock on the right. The dividing head in the center is not as clean as the one included with the lathe; it was used on a grinder and the grinder marks are visible. It works fine and if you choose to buy the bench with it instead of the cleaner one, the price of the bench is $400.
5C UNUSUAL ADAPTER. Fits into Hardinge 5c head stock like a collet and is drawn tight with the collet drawbar. Useful for adapting any number of items to a 5c head stock. Inside diameter is 1.25" with an inside depth of 2" with a set screw. Made of steel with a high tech finish. Very high quality. NEW. $125.
NEED A COLLET RACK? Think outside the box. Draw a centerline down the middle of your rack top, then draw appropriate sized circles as illustrated to place your collets equidistant from each other. Intersecting lines are the centers of the holes to be bored.
SET OF 5C COLLETS WITH HOLDER, 1/16" TO 1" BY 1/16", MISSING 15/16". 10 are Hardinge, 4 are Neal, 1 is Royal. All in usable condition. $75.
AVAILABLE 5C ROUND COLLETS: 1/16, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32, 11/64, 3/16, 7/32,17/64, 9/32, 19/64, 5/16, 13/16, 11/32, 21/64, 23/64, 3/8, 25/64, 13/32, 7/16, 15/32, 1/2, 33/64, 17/32, 35/64, 9/16, 19/32, 39/64, 5/8, 43/64, 23/32, 3/4, 49/64, 25/32, 7/8, 1 1/16, 1 1/32. I willing to trade for these 5c round collets: 1/64, 3/64, 5/64, 7/64, 29/64, 31/64, 27/32, 1 1/64, 1 3/64, 1 5/64, 1 7/64. I am willing to trade for square, hexagonal and unusual collets as well.
1/4" 3C COLLET The Inside diameter at the bottom of the collet is 1/2", which is the maximum diameter of a 3c collet. 26TPI threads. $30.
ADVICE FOR ANYONE BUYING A LATHE CHUCK. If you are buying a chuck that requires separate inside and outside jaws, such as a 3-jaw or a 6-jaw chuck, I recommend that you only buy one with both sets of jaws. Buy one in need of a set of jaws and you will not likely find a set of jaws to fit it. You will not likely want to pay the new price of jaws from the manutacturer. BUY A COMPLETE QUALITY PRODUCT IN GOOD CONDITION AND LIVE HAPPILY EVERAFTER.
SKINNER FOR HARDINGE H-95 4-JAW CHUCK with reversible jaws. If you can only afford one chuck, a 4-jaw chuck should be your choice. You may hold round and rectangular stock on center or off center and you may adjust it more perfectly. There is little quality difference between this Skinner and Hardinge chucks. The design is virtually the same. This chuck runs true on a Hardinge 5c taper spindle nose. $325
HARDINGE 30AHC 3-JAW CHUCK with 12 sets of jaws. Chuck jaws are machined at the factory on the chuck they are sold with. The odd jaws with this chuck were custom machined on this chuck, so they run true. You get 2 sets each of unaltered inside and outside jaws + 8 special jaws. Chuck disassembled, newly cleaned lubed and adjusted; works well. Parts show little wear. $550. I am not selling the jaws separately, but you are welcome to buy it for the extra jaws.
HARDINGE 30AHC 3-JAW CHUCK with outside jaws only. The serial numbers on the jaws match the serial number on the chuck body. This chuck runs true on a Hardinge 5c taper spindle nose. The chuck was disassembled, cleaned, lubed and adjusted. $250
7.5" 6-JAW BUCK CHUCK. Tru-adjust. With inside and outside jaws. The serial numbers on the jaws match the serial number on the chuck body. Note the special feature of the inside jaws that allows you to hold a dime or even a smaller item. With Hardinge 5c taper spindle nose backing plate machined from a Hardinge hardened 9" faceplate; runs true and works with the Tru-adjust Buck Chuck. I use this on a rotary indexing table with a Hardinge 5c taper spindle nose on a milling machine for accurately locating holes concentrically. I also occasionally use it on a Hardinge lathe with a ball bearing spindle. I also have available a 2 1/4x8TPI threaded backing plate for this chuck; see Tools web page. Great chuck in great condition. $1000.
ROTARY TABLE with HARDINGE 5C TAPER SPINDLE NOSE. This is the rotary table I mentioned in the above listing. I had a Hardinge 5c taper spindle nose centerless ground to a "slip fit" to the Nikken rotary table. In the right foreground is a short drawbar I made that allows me to use collets on the rotary table. I may now machine something on the lathe and move the chuck with the workpiece to the rotary table on the milling machine for further machining--usually locating holes concentrically. When you mount a workpiece in a chuck there will be some distortion of the workpiece. When you remove the workpiece from the chuck and then remount it in another chuck, there will be a different distortion of the workpiece. The job I was working on at the time I came up with this idea would not tolerate any such distortion. It required that a large hole be bored in the workpiece with several small holes located concentrically around the perimeter of the large hole. This was the most efficient solution to that problem and it has served me well for many years since. I use it frequently. This is not for sale. It is just an idea that you are welcome to utilize. I do have a surplus-to-my-needs new-old-stock 12 position quick indexing plate (I am using a 24 position plate) available for the Nikken which I am willing to trade for a Nikken quick indexing plate that will not duplicate my capabilities. I may be willing to buy your Nikken quick indexing plate outright.
5C TAPER NOSE SPINDLE. I bought this for my own use. Actually, I have more than one use for it. I do not know when I will get around to using it, however, so I offer it for sale. This could be used as I used the one illustrated above with the Nikken rotary table, or in any number of other ways. Rarely found by themselves. You virtually have to buy a lathe to acquire one. They are available brand new from Hardinge, but expect to pay over twice what I am asking for it. $900.
